Eat (and Drink) Your Way through Belize

Driving in any direction on the Hummingbird Highway, it would be hard to miss this white shack surrounded by cars, in a small clearing immediately next to the road under the shade of a very large tree. Ms. Bertha’s Tamales has little signage, but no signs are needed for locals. Everyone knows about Ms. Bertha Lisbey and her tamales. They are said to be the best in Belize. One of her spiced, gooey chicken-and-corn tamales is a perfect break. Pair it with a hot sauce she has been making almost as long as the tamales, and a cold soda in a glass bottle. Since Ms. Bertha is now 75 years old, some days it is her daughter who’s the one serving loyal customers and first-time visitors, drawn by the stories that you’ll hear in every corner of the country. The small shack can serve hundreds of tamales a day during peak season yet each one is prepared with the same attention and love. Everyone sits on benches, patiently waiting their turn. There aren’t many places to stop along the Hummingbird Highway, but that’s not the only reason you shouldn’t pass by Bertha’s without turning in. Make sure you stop.

Blue Water Grill is an open-air restaurant right on the beach in a quieter end of San Pedro. Simple and rustic in its decor, with wood walls and colorful paintings, it’s a space that allows the food to be the star of the show. Breakfast features good, predictable Belizean favorites such as fry jacks and scrambled eggs with beans, but dinner is the real attraction. The crispy fried pork dumplings with hoisin peanut sauce, served over an arugula, hearts of palm, and daikon radish salad, was my favorite dish, though the Mongolian-style ribs, the bacon-wrapped filet mignon, the key lime pie, and the crème brûlée were also delectable.

Before I went to Belize, anyone I spoke with who had already been told me that I had to have a meal at Elvi’s Kitchen. What started out as a take-out burger window in 1974 eventually became a sit-down restaurant serving lovingly prepared Caribbean dishes such as conch soup and fritters, mojo de ajo, fried green plantains, and street corn. During high season you might have to wait in line to eat dinner at the restaurant, but most of the time, there isn’t much delay. Save room for dessert. Elvi’s Kitchen is open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Monday through Saturday.

Pop’s Restaurant is on a side street close to the heart of San Ignacio. Colorful booths and brightly painted walls welcome you in, and the menu focuses on breakfast, served all day. Pop’s feels cozy, the kind of place you want to linger over several cups of coffee. Most guests are locals, who rave about the breakfast as being the best in town, but visitors are enthusiastically welcomed. Most meals come with fruit and I thought their fry jacks were the best I had in Belize. Pop’s is open from 6:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., every day.

Rolson’s Hotel and Restaurant is high on a hill, overlooking the town of San Ignacio, not too far from the ruins of Cahal Pech. The restaurant’s tables are mostly outdoors, and the view provides a wonderful backdrop to meals that showcase the best of Belizean and Mexican cuisine. My favorite was a chicken burrito drowning in cheese and salsa. I also thoroughly enjoyed the horchata, fresh-squeezed lemonade and michelada. At happy hour, Monday through Friday between 5 and 7 p.m., the michelada is a welcome refresher. Wireless Internet is available, making Rolson’s a great place to get some work done while enjoying wonderful food served with a smile. The longer you linger, the merrier the atmosphere becomes, as locals seem to favor enjoying a late dinner on Rolson’s breezy patio. Dinner is served from 6 to 10 p.m.

On the banks of the Macal River, at the edge of downtown San Ignacio, you’ll find a sprawling Saturday market where everything from shoes and clothing to housewares and fresh produce is for sale. Local people shop for supplies and gather to catch up on gossip at the food stalls. The market is somewhat divided between produce sellers and souvenir vendors, but as the market has grown, the separation seems to have floundered a bit. Leave enough time to wander every aisle and stall to ensure no gem is left undiscovered. Locals recommend the tacos and pupusas as the best choices for lunch, and the snow cones topped with evaporated milk for a snack. Buses also park just next to the market in a dirt lot, so transportation is not difficult if you’re coming from outside of town.

Just across from the bus station in Belmopan, on Market Square, is the welcoming Caladium Restaurant. Serving locals and visitors since 1984, it was the first dining room in town to offer take-out service. The main room is adjacent to a gift shop where traditional Belizean art and crafts are for sale. The menu favors local dishes such as chicken with rice and beans but international options like sweet and sour pork are also available. Fresh-squeezed juices from watermelon, tamarind and papaya are available, as are imported beers and soda. I was glad I saved room for the flan, which was perfectly balanced with a caramel sauce tinged with just a hint of liquor. Breakfast is served in the morning beginning at 7 a.m. and lunch is available from 11 a.m. until 8 p.m., Monday through Saturday.

Café Casita de Amor is inside a building that looks more like a home, albeit one of the most unusual you will find in Belize. Painted in striking shades of blue and orange with a metal roof that glints in the sunlight, it’s surrounded by a garden and just at the end of a bridge along the Hummingbird Highway. The cozy, colorful café offers sandwiches, crepes and omelets but the real stars of the menu are the drinks. If you’re looking for something sweet, try a milkshake made from flavors like papaya, banana and coconut. The coffee is excellent and will fuel you up for the remainder of your journey. Just prepare to wait after ordering as all food is made to order.

A turquoise façade that’s barely distinguishable as a store or restaurant hides the best fry chicken in Belize City, according to the guide I had during my visit. Look for an opening at waist level, in the windows that are covered by bars and mosquito screen, at number 92 on Dean Street. There you can order Fry Chicken to go, with or without sauce. The sauce has a spicy ketchup-like quality and while I preferred mine without, I think the chicken is excellent either way. Whether it’s actually the best or not, I don’t know, but it certainly was worth the effort to find!

This tiny breakfast spot is tucked next to the Great House Inn, across the street from the Radisson Hotel. Inside, you’ll find all manner of Belizean breakfast staples, both sweet and savory, for next-to-nothing prices (a whole loaf of delicious banana bread will run you approximately $2). Try the fry jacks, which look (and taste) like fried clouds. Guests of the Great House Inn are treated with complimentary breakfasts from this spot.

On a sandy street, in a building with Victorian trim, near the Purple Monkey Bar and across from a tour company, there’s an unassuming storefront that guards what some people told me is the best gelato in the world. Tutti Frutti Gelateria serves up a constantly changing variety of flavors. From rare Provence lavender to simple chocolate to bracing mint and all kinds of fresh, fruit flavors, every scoop is a welcome relief from the tropical heat. The owners divide their time between Placencia and a home in Italy, so there are months when the shop is closed. During my visit, every customer who came in was a repeat and every one raved about the gelato they’d previously tried, exclaiming that it was indeed the “best.”

The Punta Gorda Market lies not far from the lapping waters of the ocean, on a street lined with shops and casual cafes. From overturned milk crates, out of the backs of trucks and underneath rainbow-colored umbrellas, Belizeans sell everything from fresh produce to kitchen utensils to socks. However, it’s the Maya women selling spice mixtures who are the stars of the market. These glass jars with red, plastic lids are sought after by chefs and cooks all across Belize.

Formerly Belcampo.

Each of the 16 rooms at Copal Tree Lodge is a spacious villa-style suite set on the edge of the jungle, which gives a sense of privacy and peacefulness. Guests shouldn’t be surprised to see coatimundi, agouti, and other wildlife while showering in the spa-style bathrooms with their floor-to-ceiling windows. Tile floors, comfortable beds wrapped with gauzy mosquito nets, and private verandas are standard in every suite, as is Wi-Fi and complimentary laundry service, and the hotel has a pool and a restaurant/bar. The numerous outdoor activities include exploring Copal Tree Lodge’s chocolate trail and kayaking or canoeing on the Rio Grande River at the base of the property; various trips can be organized off-site, too. The hotel is closed from mid-September to late October.

Hopkins Bay Resort is located on the beach right near the town of Hopkins; accommodations include one-, two-, and three-bedroom beach houses. Local art and polished mahogany furniture signal that this is no cookie-cutter chain hotel. The spacious houses are perfect for families or small groups traveling together. Resort activities include dance and music performances that reflect the traditions of the local Garifuna people, descendants of Africans brought to the New World as slaves. Staff can also arrange excursions to numerous cultural and historic attractions, not only in and around Hopkins, but also to iconic sites such as Xunantunich, a Maya site, and the Blue Hole, one of the world’s most popular destinations for scuba diving.

Ka’ana is described as a “boutique resort,” and it appeals to guests who want a sense of being in the Belizean rain forest while also enjoying the comforts and amenities of a full-service resort. Rooms and villas here seem to blend into the jungle, but it’s clear that all is carefully tamed to ensure that guests don’t feel overwhelmed by the wildness. Rooms are decorated in earth tones, with textiles and design accents all locally crafted. Furniture is sturdy local hardwood. Master suites have outdoor showers, and there are two spacious, private villas, each with its own plunge pool, garden, and outdoor terrace, among other luxuries. Staff can arrange land and sea excursions to the country’s most popular cultural, historic, and natural sites.

Good breakfast spots are on the rise in San Pedro, but one of the most beloved places to grab a bite will always be Estel’s Dine by the Sea. Aside from its perfect beachfront location where you can eat with your toes in the sand, the food is pretty darn good as well. At Estel’s, you won’t find menus on the table; you must walk inside to check out the board. Don’t be surprised to find a crowd on the weekends, especially Sunday mornings. Just follow the smell of Charles Jr.’s famous BBQ specialties cooking on the grill, and you’ll understand why people are ordering plates of ribs first thing on Sunday! Aside from some impressive barbecue, Estel’s has a number of dishes that might leave you feeling the need to return once or twice more for breakfast. Personal recommendations include the Mayan Eggs, which is scrambled eggs with tomatoes, onions, bell peppers, and sausage, served with a side of refried beans and fry jacks, or try the breakfast burrito. Don’t forget the Marie Sharps hot sauce on top! Breakfast is served all day. Closed Tuesdays.

“The Hol Chan Marine Reserve. You can swim with sharks and stingrays at Shark Ray Alley and you are pretty much guaranteed to see a huge variety of fish and other sea life. All of our guests are excited when they come back from a day there after seeing the many shades of the sea, which is 82 degrees and crystal clear, while the skies are usually blue and the sun bright, bringing out all the colors below. Huge fish, sharks, sting rays, sea turtles — you never know if there is going to be a dolphin or manatee joining everyone. The sea is our playground.” Kirsten Miglio, owner Ak’boL Yoga Retreat

Undoubtedly, one of the most popular dishes in Belize is “Rice and Beans,” usually served with stewed chicken, beef, or pork. Locals pronounce it “rice n beans with stew chicken” and it’s available almost everywhere throughout the country—from food stalls to resort restaurants. The signature red color comes from red recado, an achiote-based paste common in Belize and other parts of the Yucatan peninsula.

It’s not uncommon for visitors to Belize to bypass Orange Walk on the New River, in favor of exploring nearby Maya ruins such as Lamanai. Once a logging town controlled by the British and then a settlement for Maya descendants, it’s now settled to the tune of some 15,000 people. Las Banquitas House of Culture is a museum, restaurant and amphitheater and is just one of the many places to enjoy while in Orange Walk. There is a large shopping and business district where the traveler may find lower prices than in other parts of the country and Internet cafes abound, coming in handy for the tourist who needs to stay in touch with friends or family back home. Area restaurants offer a wide variety of cuisine in addition to all the local Belizean favorites, Paniscea being one of the most highly rated.

Belize’s liveliest time of the year comes in September, when the entire country celebrates independence for three entire weeks leading up to Sept. 21. The major towns and cities host various events, and a countrywide calendar is published on Sept. 1, allowing you to follow along with the fun wherever you might find yourself in Belize. The most popular events are a steel pan concert called Pan Yaad, held in Belize City, and two full-blown carnival parades. Belize City Carnival, with soca and Caribbean music blaring, is held in mid-September, while Orange Walk Carnival takes place on Independence Day and celebrates Mestizo heritage. Take advantage of low-season fares to get a unique culture-filled experience in Belize in September.

One of Caye Caulker’s best beach bars is also its friendliest. Set right on the Split—a narrow channel dividing the island’s north and south portions—Caye Caulker’s most social corner invites tourists and locals to gather for a swim off an extended dock, or to enjoy a cocktail and music. Lazy Lizard’s recently upgraded look includes a variety of umbrella-covered wooden picnic tables, seating under palapas, and a new beach extension with steps leading into the shallow sea areas for easy entry. On the menu, you’ll find typical bar bites: burgers, fish tacos, and full meals like a lobster plate. The bar holds occasional full-moon parties, live music, family-fun days, and beach volleyball tournaments.

From the first time I set foot on the island of Ambergris Caye, Caramba became my favorite restaurant in San Pedro. And that’s not changed, even ten years later. Rene Reyes, Sr. and his wife Patty have done a remarkable job with the restaurant. Every season brings something new and exciting – whether it be décor changes, menu enhancements or even new cocktail creations. The Reyes’ sons Jonathan and Renesito are now involved in day-to-day operations, keeping Caramba one of the long-standing family-owned and operated businesses on the island. Personal recommendations include Conch Fritters (seasonal), Sopa de Lima, Fish Tacos, Pibil Pork Sub and the Coconut Shrimp. Any of the seafood dishes are spectacular – go for the Maya or Tour Guide cooking options. Be sure to try one of bartender Charlie’s cocktails, like the Strawberry Beerita, King Margarita, or a special mojito. Not a drinker? Caramba has some of the best fruit smoothies on the island. Closed Wednesdays. Check Foursquare for current specials.

Garifuna Settlement Day celebrates the arrival of the first Garinagu on Belizean shores back in the 1800s. All-night parties leading up to the November 19 holiday take place around the country, along with cultural reenactment ceremonies. Garifuna villages like Dangriga, Hopkins, and Punta Gorda really come alive during Garifuna Settlement Day celebrations. The spiritual home of Garifuna is Dangriga—and the ideal spot if you want to experience Belize‘s biggest celebration. The reenactment ceremony takes place very early on November 19, with Garinagu arriving to shore on a dory, or dugout canoe. Garifuna women line the shores in bright costumes while traditional drummers welcome the boats in. Look for the colors of the Garifuna flag—yellow (sun), white (peace), and black (color of their people). There are parades, singing, drumming, prayers, food, and more, usually for an entire week. In 2001, UNESCO recognized the importance of Garifuna culture and declared it a “masterpiece of the oral and intangible heritage of humanity,” encouraging education and its preservation.